The History of Nylon

Nylon webbing is such a pervasive part of our everyday lives that it is often overlooked. Its story, however, and its journey throughout America's history is anything but meek. So let's go back in time to the late 1700's, to a man named Pierre Samuel du Pont. Pierre was an intelligent man who was connected to many different organizations. From being a government official to a publicist, Pierre was widely known for his work. It wasn't until the beginning of the French Revolution when Pierre joined forces with Antoine-Laurent Lavoiseier, and they together reorganized the Royal Gunpowder and Saltpetre Administration. This then led Lavoisier, one of the agency's four directors, to hire Pierre's son Eleuthère Irénée du Pont to work in the gunpowder factory. Eleuthère would use this time learning how to manufacture gunpowder and become a very accomplished chemist.

The Beginnings of DuPont

Eleuthère Irénée du Pont

Eleuthère Irénée du Pont was an entrepreneur who got his start in his homeland of France. He trained under the chemist Antoine Lavoisier, who was the superintendent for the gunpowder plant run by the French government. Escaping the French Revolution, du Pont took his knowledge and skills with him when he moved to America.

It was 1802 when he moved his wife and two children to the Brandywine River, which lies between Washington D.C. and Philadelphia. Du Pont sought after a good site for the manufacture of gun powder, as he hoped to become successful producing high quality and affordable gun and blasting powder. In a fertile valley by the river, he found it.

Using an old cotton mill to start with, and some start-up funds from his father's influential friends, du Pont quickly launched his business endeavor and began churning out the best powder in America. It may have been pure luck for du Pont that only three years later, President Jefferson ordered the embargo of trade with Europe, a principal source of gunpowder for the states.

In 1811, with the sudden widespread demand for more powder, du Pont's manufacturing site became the largest mill in the United States. This Frenchman was living the American Dream, but that was only the start.

The War of 1812, the Mexican War, and the Civil War followed each other in relatively rapid succession. For each war, the need for gunpowder was significant and the company DuPont met demands with top quality products.

Despite a tragedy where five were killed in an accidental explosion and competition with the return of competitors from Europe, DuPont managed to hold its own. It nearly collapsed in the late 1800's, but Alfred Irénée du Pont (great grandchild of Eleuthère Irénée du Pont and VP of Operations at the time) saved the company with the production of brown prismatic powder, used in the Spanish-American War.

The Invention of Nylon

Around the early 1900's, America made the decision to stop trading for silk with out of country sources. With World War 1 around the corner, America wanted a silk like fibrous material that could be made in the country. One that was as soft and durable as the silk they have been using for years. Once Du Pont got word of this decision, the Du Pont Experimental Station began working to create alternative materials such as Rayon, Neoprene, and various Polyesters.

Wallace Carothers

Rayon was becoming an incredibly popular alternative to natural fibers. It was the beginning of what eventually led to manufactured fibers taking over the majority of the market.

In 1931, DuPont made another splash with the aid of their principal chemist, Wallace Carothers. He was researching large molecules called polymers, and had created over 100 varieties. One of those specimens went by the name "Tiber 66" based on its molecular structure. (Each component contained six carbon atoms, hence the 6 6.) "Tiber 66" was what we now refer to as nylon.

Finally, this was a manufactured fiber that could outlast, outperform, and outshine rayon in so many purposes. While rayon and acetate had been developed from plant cellulose, this superior product came solely from petrochemicals. Tiber 66 was first used commercially in toothbrushes.

The Molecular Structure of Nylon

DuPont was not ready to begin manufacturing Tiber 66 for the public until 1939. With it's name changed to the more consumer friendly Nylon, the fiber first made a name for itself in women's hosiery. Due to World War 2, Japanese silk was not available. This opened the door for nylon to find it's way into parachute fabric, netting, nylon sewing thread, life rafts, and dozens of other products. The company was set for big retail success.

Unfortunately, the war lead the government to order that all nylon production be allocated to military needs. The nylon hose, which had only just had a chance to become the latest craze, were no longer in production. While black market hose sold for $10 a pair, eight times their original price of $1.25, DuPont focused on more important things like producing parachutes for soldiers, tires for jeeps, tents, ropes, and even a special paper used for U.S. currency. By the end of the war, manufactured fibers had overtaken nearly a quarter of the U.S. fiber market.

Nylon After World War 2

The Holeproof Hosiery counter at a Sydney department store, 1948

When World War II was over, the military no longer needed such intensive manufacturing. DuPont was released from the order to produce nylon only for wartime purposes. As soon as they were able, DuPont began to produce women's hosiery again.

Enormous demand for women's hosiery created long lines at department stores. Women all over the states were eager buy their first pairs of post-war hose. For a period of time the demand was so great that all nylon production was focused on manufacturing nylons.

Meanwhile, experimentation on nylon's versatility and potential usefulness led to the production of nylon carpet and upholstery in cars. However, nylon was no longer the newest superstar synthetic fiber. Other companies competed to develop the next latest and greatest in manufactured fibers.

The Union Carbide Corporation invented a fiber called modacrylic fiber. Hercules Incorporated developed a product called olefin fiber. And Dow Badische Company came up with metalized fibers. Nylon was still the leading synthetic fiber, however, when DuPont came up with yet another fiber: acrylic.

In the 1950s, the polyester fiber that had been a part of Wallace Carother's prior research was making a comeback. Originally overlooked and not utilized fully, polyester became the focus of J. Dickson and J. Whinfield, who produced a superior version and patented it nationally and internationally.

Changing the Face of the Fiber Industry

An advertisement for Wash and Wear clothing.

In the days when natural fiber clothing had no alternative, ironing was a daily drudgery for women across America. Clothes all had to be washed, dried, and then pressed with a hot iron before they could be worn again. This time-consuming task was a great deal of work for women with families.

When manufactured fibers began to really take hold in the fiber market, this began to change. In 1952, the term "wash and wear" came out to describe the ease of using clothes made from a cotton/acrylic blend.

Over time, manufactured fiber research moved away from researching new base polymers and into refining the fibers already developed. This refinement resulted in even better products made from manufactured fibers. It also produced more manufactured fibers blended with natural fibers.

The G3C space suit was made from six layers of nylon.

In the 1960s and 1970s, polyester-blend fabrics became the norm. Clothes dryers left this type of clothing clean and wrinkle-free. Colors lasted longer than before and fabrics were less likely to wear out or fray than older materials. By this point about 40% of the fiber market was held by these modern manufactured fibers.

Despite all these advances, nylon continued to be trusted in more and more products as technology, science, and other industries expanded and developed. NASA utilized nylon in various ways. Neil Armstrong's suit and the American flag he planted on the moon contained nylon. Even rockets contained polymer products as a means of reducing weight and fuel expense while leaving the atmosphere.

The Last 40 Years in Nylon

18 rolls of nylon webbing in various colors.

In the 1970s, following some tragedies with home fires, consumers demanded nonflammable sleepwear for children, carpet, and other home products. Over $20,000,000 in research funds later, the manufactured fiber industry had met with success in developing surface fibers that are not flammable.

A second major challenge of this time was the energy crisis of 1973. Manufactured fiber production was big business, and absorbed big energy. Additional research went into reducing the energy needed for producing manufactured fibers. Energy efficiency in the industry increased by 26%. And only 1% of the supply of petroleum in the United States was being used to produce about 70% of the fibers used in the nation.

Once the safety and energy concerns were dealt with, consumers began seeking ways to clean the fibers more easily. Once again, chemical engineers rose to the challenge. Carpet fibers made of nylon variants olefin and polyester made cleaning a cinch. In fact, a stain could be left overnight and still easily washed out the next day.

Today, the apparel industry is still dependent on manufactured fibers, and the quality of clothing has increased greatly because of this. Nylon use has expanded across almost every industry. Today it can be found in rock-climbing equipment, surgical products, diapers, space stations, the pet industry, and for countless other purposes. Thanks to Eleuthère Irénée du Pont for taking a chance and moving to America back in 1802, Nylon has become an American heritage and does not appear to be losing hold any time soon. His bravery and perseverance has created a legacy that will last for generations.